10 Questions with Designer Alice Fern of Atelier Fern
Designer Alice Fern
1) Tell us about your background. how you got into designing fashion?
I consider myself very fortunate in that for as long as I can remember, I always knew I wanted to be a fashion designer. As a child, I would daydream and sketch – or scribble – clothes for hours on end. My passion only intensified as I got older, which led me to pursue a BA in Fashion Design at the University of Westminster in London. It was here where I got to train alongside some of the most talented and forward-thinking designers in the industry, completing internships at Christopher Kane, Matthew Williamson, and Chloe before moving to New York.
2) Who did you work for before and the celebrities you design for?
Before launching Atelier Fern, I worked with Michael Kors, Alice and Olivia, and Rebecca Minkoff. Additionally, I had the opportunity to work closely with Olivia Palermo on her own line. Throughout my career I’ve been fortunate enough to see my designs being worn by Michelle Obama, Karlie Kloss, Paris Hilton and Elizabeth Moss, among others.
3) When did you open Atelier Fern?
Last April during New York Bridal Fashion Week.
4) What inspired you to design bridal?
It was the search for my own dress. Not only was I unable to find what I was looking for, but the lead times were INSANE and restrictive. We planned our wedding within a year, and I began dress shopping six months out thinking I had plenty of time, but the associates were horrified when they learned my date.
As I was unable to find a dress I loved and unwilling to settle, I decided to design my own. I was between a slip silhouette, and an A-line gown so I began by creating a shape that is revealing over the bust, with a low back, and figure hugging over the waist but with a beautifully dramatic skirt. In case you’re wondering, this one’s the Alice dress. 😉
The more ideas I had, the more the line developed, and the more I realized how very few options there were for modern brides in search of a simple silhouette and an untraditional approach. I LOVE having the ability to create really meaningful pieces that have intention with each piece being individually beautiful in its own right. Also, being able to step away from the traditional fashion calendar’s bloated merch plans aimed at filling sku’s rather than demonstrating a point of view is a welcome breath of fresh air.
5) How would you describe the overall aesthetic of the collection?
Modern, Unexpected, Feminine, and Ethereal.
6) Tell us about the fabrics you like to use and the silhouettes?
Most of the collection is silk inside and out, I really focus on high fabric quality, how it drapes, and how it feels on the body. For example, our Tamzin dress has 25 meters of silk just in the skirt, but it still feels as light as air because we used the most beautiful parachute silk from Como which makes you feel like you’re floating down the aisle. One of my biggest goals with the collection is to work with heritage mills as much as possible; it’s a really diminishing industry, and I want to support specialized craftmanship as much as possible. It also tells more of a story, the fact I can tell a bride that the lace used in her dress was woven on a loom that’s over a hundred years old gives it that added level of magic.
7) What is your process when working with a customer?
First, we want to get to know them. What are their needs and wants, we want to be sure we understand them. Then, we help guide them through the process of finding (or designing) the dress or garment that is right for them. At the initial consultation we’ll discuss all of this and start with the collection. From there, we’ll determine if they’d like a dress from the collection or some modification to a collection piece, or another design entirely. Because we offer three levels of service: made-to-order, made-to-measure, and custom, the process will differ depending on which.
Made-to-order pieces can be ordered online in standard sizes through our website and typically take 10-12 weeks for delivery. Made-to-measure typically involves an in-person or video consultation and fitting where adjustments can be made to ensure the most optimal fit possible. For custom clients we start with an in-person consultation; this normally involves them choosing to try on some pieces from the collection to help guide a silhouette, as well as looking through our fabrics to choose a cloth, and color. When we are clear on the direction, we take measurements and a week later present our client with a sketch of the final design. Once they are happily in love with the design, then we go to pattern. The next step is the first fitting which is a toile of the design in a similar weight sub fabric. This is when we make any adjustments to the fit and final changes to the design to ensure both are just right. Any changes are incorporated and then we go to cloth to make the final garment. Depending on the complexity of the style and fabrication the entire process takes around twelve weeks. The last fitting is recommended 2-3 weeks before the wedding to fit as close as possible to the date but with time for any final adjustments.
8) Where are you locateD?, tell us about the atelier.
We currently operate out of Michael Andrews Bespoke in New York City. All our dresses are made by skilled artisans in NY’s garment district with select tailoring pieces being made in the Michael Andrews Bespoke workshop.
9) Is this Bespoke only?
Certainly not. We offer both made-to-order for those who want a standard size and made-to-measure (MTM) for those who would prefer a more exacting fit. MTM is also customizable on request. For example, if someone wants a specific color, fabric, change in neckline, length or to add a sleeve etc. In addition to this we also offer full custom.
10) What do your brides like to wear today?
Our most requested pieces are the Lola, Phoebe, and Penelope. For custom we have seen a lot of non-traditional brides who want a dress that’s beautifully simple, or that’s not a dress at all but instead a jumpsuit, or tailored piece. The one common denominator is that the cut is so important to them.
